Grannis and Doc Ball Set the Standard
Dispatch from the Minister of Lost Waves. Two friends set the Golden Age image. John "Doc" Ball began surfing in 1929, when about 20 surfers rode the whole California coast, and took surf pictures from 1931. His 1946 book California Surfriders stands as the first book of its kind, with young LeRoy Grannis in more than six of its photos. Grannis, born a block from the ocean in Hermosa Beach in 1917, took up photography in 1959 on a doctor's advice to find a stress-relieving hobby. He shot the 1960s surf world he knew from inside, and his pictures carry the joyful feel of family photos made by a talented brother. Portrait work had its masters, fashion had its masters, and surfing had Ball and Grannis.
Source: Smithsonian Magazine.
https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/endless-summers-154605547/
P.S. Good eyes, good friends, and morning light. That recipe still works. - Kahuna
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